Yezwani Beach on Mare Island is a secluded coastal paradise in New Caledonia, known for its pristine white sands, turquoise waters, and dramatic limestone cliffs. Located near the village of Eni, it offers a tranquil escape for travelers seeking untouched natural beauty and world-class snorkeling in a serene, off-the-beaten-path environment.
Why is Mare Known as the ‘Wild Island’?
Mare, known locally as Nengone, is the second largest of the Loyalty Islands in New Caledonia, yet it remains the most mysterious and rugged of them all. For travelers from New Zealand accustomed to the volcanic landscapes of the North Island or the alpine peaks of the South, Mare offers a startlingly different geological profile. It is an uplifted coral atoll, a former reef that was thrust out of the ocean by tectonic forces, creating a landscape of jagged limestone cliffs, deep sinkholes, and hidden caverns. This geological history has earned it the nickname ‘The Wild Island,’ a place where nature is raw, untamed, and profoundly beautiful.
The island’s character is defined by its dramatic coastline, where the Pacific Ocean crashes against towering coral walls, and its interior, which is a labyrinth of dense tropical forests and ancestral Kanak villages. Unlike the more developed tourist hubs of Nouméa or the Isle of Pines, Mare has resisted large-scale commercialization. There are no sprawling resorts or high-rise hotels here. Instead, visitors find a deeply traditional society where the Kanak culture is the heartbeat of daily life. This authenticity is what draws sophisticated travelers who are looking for more than just a beach holiday—they are looking for a connection to the land and its people.
For the New Zealand market, Mare represents the ultimate ‘off-the-grid’ luxury. It is a place where time slows down, and the modern world feels thousands of miles away. The island’s ruggedness is its greatest asset, protecting its pristine ecosystems and ensuring that those who make the journey are rewarded with experiences that are as exclusive as they are natural. Whether you are exploring the deep ‘Trou de Bone’ sinkhole or walking through the towering Columnar Pines that line the shore, Mare demands respect and offers a sense of wonder that is increasingly rare in the South Pacific.
How to Experience the Magic of Yezwani Beach Mare?
Yezwani Beach, often referred to as the jewel of the Eni district, is the quintessential Pacific dream. Located on the southern coast of the island, this beach is a masterclass in natural aesthetics. The sand is a dazzling, powdery white, composed of finely ground coral that stays cool even under the tropical sun. The water transitions through every shade of blue, from a pale crystalline turquoise near the shore to a deep, royal cobalt where the reef drops away into the abyss. If you are searching for the perfect ‘yezwani beach mare’ experience, you must be prepared for total isolation; it is not uncommon to have this entire stretch of paradise to yourself.
Accessing Yezwani Beach requires a short journey to the village of Eni. As you descend toward the coast, the view opens up to reveal a crescent-shaped bay framed by lush vegetation and weathered limestone formations. The beach is protected by a fringing reef, making the waters calm and ideal for swimming. However, the true magic lies just beneath the surface. The coral gardens at Yezwani are some of the healthiest in the region, teeming with vibrant reef fish, sea turtles, and the occasional reef shark. It is a sanctuary for biodiversity, largely because the local community has acted as stewards of this land for generations.
When visiting Yezwani, it is essential to remember that you are on tribal land. While the beach is open to visitors, practicing ‘La Coutume’—a traditional Kanak gesture of respect—is highly recommended if you encounter local elders or village leaders. This usually involves a small gift, such as a piece of cloth (manou) or a small amount of currency, and a brief introduction. This cultural exchange is a cornerstone of New Caledonian travel and opens doors to a deeper understanding of the island. For Kiwis, this respect for indigenous land and custom will feel familiar, echoing the principles of Manaakitanga and respect for the whenua.
Snorkeling Tips for Yezwani
To get the most out of your snorkeling at Yezwani Beach, aim to enter the water during mid-tide. This provides enough depth to float over the delicate coral structures without the risk of touching them. Visibility is typically exceptional, often exceeding 30 meters. Look for the ‘blue holes’ within the reef—deeper pockets of water where larger fish congregate. Remember to use reef-safe sunscreen to protect this fragile ecosystem, as the chemicals in traditional sunblocks can be devastating to coral health.
What Makes the Natural Aquarium a Must-Visit?
The ‘Aquarium Naturel’ is perhaps Mare’s most famous landmark, yet it is not a place for swimming. This geological wonder is a deep, natural rock pool carved into the limestone, connected to the ocean via subterranean tunnels. The water within is a brilliant, translucent emerald, and it serves as a natural nursery for a staggering array of marine life. From the edge of the surrounding cliffs, you can look down into the clear depths and see schools of parrotfish, snapper, and even large groupers gliding through the coral formations.
The reason swimming is strictly prohibited in the Natural Aquarium is twofold: safety and conservation. The currents within the pool can be unpredictable due to the underwater channels, and the ecosystem is so contained that human presence (and the associated oils and debris) would quickly degrade the water quality. Instead, the Aquarium is a place for quiet contemplation. It is a living museum of the Pacific, offering a glimpse into an underwater world that remains largely untouched by human interference. For photographers, the play of light on the water and the contrast between the green foliage and the blue pool is world-class.
Visiting the Aquarium is best done in the early morning or late afternoon when the sun is at an angle, illuminating the depths of the pool. It is located just a short drive from the main town of Tadine, making it easily accessible. As you stand on the limestone ledge, you realize that Mare is a place where nature is the primary architect. The Aquarium is a testament to the island’s unique geology and its role as a sanctuary for the creatures of the Coral Sea. It is a powerful reminder of why New Caledonia’s lagoons are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Is Hiking the Shabadran Terraces Worth the Effort?
For the adventurous traveler, the Shabadran Terraces (Terrasses de Shabadran) represent the pinnacle of a trip to Mare. This is not a casual stroll; it is a challenging two-hour hike through dense scrub, over sharp coral rocks, and along narrow coastal paths. However, the destination is arguably one of the most spectacular sights in the entire South Pacific. The ‘terraces’ are a series of natural limestone steps that have been carved by the waves over millennia, creating a surreal, tiered landscape that overlooks the thundering ocean.
The hike to Shabadran must be undertaken with a local guide. This is not only for safety—the path is unmarked and can be treacherous—but also because the terraces are located on sacred tribal land. A guide will share the legends associated with the site, explain the medicinal uses of the plants you pass along the way, and ensure that you navigate the sharp ‘razor’ coral safely. The physical exertion is rewarded when you emerge from the forest to see the terraces stretching out before you, with giant waves crashing against the lower levels and sending spray high into the air.
At the base of the terraces lies a hidden beach of pure white sand, framed by towering cliffs and coconut palms. It is a place of immense power and beauty, where the raw energy of the Pacific is on full display. For New Zealanders who love the rugged coastlines of the Waitakere Ranges or the wildness of the West Coast, Shabadran will feel like a tropical cousin to those landscapes—vaster, warmer, and infinitely more remote. It is an experience that stays with you long after you have left the island, a reminder of the sheer scale and beauty of the natural world.
How to Plan Your Trip from New Zealand to Mare?
The journey begins with a flight from Auckland to Nouméa, the capital of New Caledonia. The flight time is less than three hours, making it one of the closest international destinations for Kiwis. Once in Nouméa, you have two choices for reaching Mare: a 35-minute flight with Air Calédonie from Magenta Airport, or a longer, more scenic journey via the Betico 2 high-speed ferry. For those with limited time, the flight is highly recommended, offering stunning aerial views of the world’s largest lagoon.
In terms of logistics, Mare is a destination that requires a bit of planning. Rental cars are limited and should be booked well in advance. There are only a few accommodation options, ranging from small tribal homestays to the more established Nengone Village Hotel. For the best experience, consider a mix of both. Staying in a tribal home provides an unparalleled look into Kanak life, while the hotel offers the comforts of a swimming pool and a restaurant. The currency is the Pacific Franc (CFP), which is pegged to the Euro. While credit cards are accepted in major establishments, carrying cash is essential for village visits and local markets.
The best time to visit Mare is during the cooler, dryer months from May to October. During this period, the temperature is a comfortable 22-26 degrees Celsius, perfect for hiking and exploring without the intense humidity of the tropical summer. For New Zealanders looking to escape the winter, this is the ideal window. Pack light, breathable clothing, sturdy walking shoes for the coral terrain, and a high-quality snorkel and mask. Mare is a place that rewards those who come prepared to engage with both the landscape and the culture on their own terms. It is not just a holiday; it is an expedition into one of the last truly wild corners of the Pacific.
Final Thoughts on the Untouched Gem
Mare Island is a destination for the soul. It challenges the traveler with its ruggedness and rewards them with its staggering beauty. From the crystalline waters of Yezwani Beach to the ancient majesty of the Shabadran Terraces, it is a place that remains defiantly itself. In an age of over-tourism, Mare stands as a testament to the power of preservation and the value of the ‘untouched.’ For the New Zealand traveler seeking a close yet transformative escape, the ‘Wild Island’ is waiting.
